How to make the Alice Bodice
This soft, almost cloudy bodice is the second (and most complex) piece for The Alice Dress, an 1897 graduation gown originally sewn by my great-great-grandmother and her classmates.
In this tutorial, I’ll guide you through each step. This is surprisingly complex, but hopefully I’ll be able to help you through the process!
Step 1: Bodice Pattern Pieces
Have all your 1890s underpinnings ready before making a mock-up: chemise, corset, corset cover, bust improver (optional)
Follow the link below to find: Alice Bodice.
Input your measurements
This and nearly all other patterns on Drafting Dynamically do NOT contain seam allowance. I recommend temporarily leaving 1” as your allowance unless otherwise stated.
I recommend using the Keystone Waist for your mock-ups. The bodice lining and the Keystone Waist are nearly identical.
The lining pieces all should be out of a light but sturdy plain cotton. The front and back yokes and bodice pieces should be out of your outer fabric.
The Front Bodice Lining on both sides should have an extra 2 1/4” on the center front, (not including seam allowance) to allow for the button closure. On the original, this edge is on the selvage. The buttons are placed along the curved line of the center front.
The yokes and outer bodice pieces should be on the fold: Both yoke pieces and the back outer piece are oriented so that if the text is right-side-up, the center is the vertical line. The center line on the outer bodice is at an angle, however when you line it up with your fabric it should be straight up and down.
You can have the back piece of the lining on the fold as well, though it is NOT on the original dress.
Step 2: Sleeve Pattern Pieces
Follow the link below to find: Alice Sleeve
Input your measurements
Add seam allowance. All three parts will be made out of the outer fabric. The slim sleeve pieces should also be cut out of the lining fabric.
On the original, the stripes of the outer fabric are straightest at the elbow.
The Slim Sleeve pattern is a little odd: The inner Back piece is for the opposite side as the outer Front, since the shared inner elbow edge is a seam. While this doesn’t really matter while cutting, it can throw you off when labeling the sides and making sure you have the right piece. I’ll explain this again when we get to sewing the sleeves together.
There is no lining or support for the sleeve puff. Cut the puff on the fold on the large vertical line.
Step 3: Collar Pattern Pieces
Follow the link below to find: Alice Collar
Input your measurements
Now we start the pattern modifications.
There are several pieces of this bodice that either have patterns that need to be altered, or they are made from other pieces.
The Collar (lining) piece needs to be altered slightly.
D to F is the center front, while the shorter B to A is center back.
However, the bodice opens on the left shoulder.
First, make a mirror copy of the collar lining, tape them together at center front.
Cut the original at the dotted line E-F.
Line them up center back
If needed, you can slightly smooth the curves at the connections.
Both the lining and outer collar pieces are cut out of the outer fabric. Cut out the lining with interfacing as well.
Step 4: Extra Bodice Pattern Pieces (lining fabric)
There are a few additional pieces from the bodice pattern that you’ll need as well. These are the two you need for the lining fabric.
Inner Front Yoke Lining:
This piece gives the front yoke and front bodice pieces something solid to attach the gathers to.
This piece is based on the Front Lining piece. The lower edge is roughly 1” above the bust line (A1 - G).
Include enough space to turn under roughly 1/2”. On the original, this lower edge is covered with an on-bias tape (not stretch).
Put center front on the fold. This piece goes across the whole front.
Buttonhole Hiding Placket
This piece covers up the lining buttons, only where the Inner Front Yoke Lining doesn’t cover them.
Measure the length of Bodice Lining center front from 2” above the bust line down to the bottom.
The finished piece will be 1 1/4” wide, folded over, with finished edges. So the pattern piece should be 2 1/2” + seam allowance.
Step 5: Extra Bodice Pattern Pieces (Outer fabric)
There are a few additional pieces from the bodice pattern that you’ll need as well. These are the ones you need for the Outer facing
Opening Facing
This piece prevents the lining fabric from at the opening, and gives some support to the outer front bodice piece.
Trace a line 1 1/4” left of the far right edge of the Front Lining piece, along the armhole and down the side seam.
Shoulder Facing
These two pieces finish the opening. They are the width of the shoulder long.
These could be included in the same piece as the Opening Facing if you’d like. However, on the original, these are separate pieces.
Neckline Finish
You will need a short length to cover the raw edge of the neckline along the left front lining.
Waistband
This is 1.25 times your waist measurement, since it will overlap itself. Add a little extra (about 1”) for the button hole closure.
The waistband ends up being 1 1/2” wide. So the pattern piece should be at least 3” wide, plus seam allowance.
The original waistband had a lot of damage, so make sure to also cut out one of interfacing.
Checkpoint!
Before we move on, let’s make sure we have all the pieces we’ll need:
Outer Fabric
Inside Collar
Outside Collar
Front Yoke
Back Yoke
Front Bodice
Back Bodice
Sleeve Front x2
Sleeve Back x2
Sleeve Puff x2
Closure Facing x2
Shoulder Closure Facing x2
Waistband
Neckline Finish
Lining Fabric
Bodice Lining Front x2
Bodice Lining Side x2
Bodice Lining SideBack x2
Bodice Lining Back (1 on fold or 2 cut separately)
Inner Front Yoke Lining
Buttonhole Cover Placket
Sleeve Front x2
Sleeve Back x2
Interfacing
Waistband
Collar
Also needed:
Lining Buttons x9 (10mm)
Waist buttons x4 (14.5mm)
Hooks and Bars x6 (silver or white)
1 1/2” - 3” lace for the neckline and cuffs (2 x (neck + 2 x (cuff))